Christchurch -Boxing Day

The day we left CHC, we felt several tremors.  I had felt a few during the night.  Alison said she thought it was about a 4.6.  It was in the city centre and we heard there was lot more damage than the September quake.  

Incognito

We have done three cities and have not been able to get on.  Watch for changes.

We are on the road now and are not readily able jump on to the internet.  Right now we are in our second night in a cabin high up a hillside overlooking Ortego Harbor.  The panoramic views are splendid.  A few green covered islands lie in the harbor and the far shore is speckled with small communities that sparkle in the twilight.  Today we went to the end of the penisula to the Albatross Centre with hopes of seeing some of these great birds.  There wasn't much wind so there wasn't anyvisible activity as these heavy birds rely on strong winds to support their weigh and hold them in the air for hours of flight over the sea.  We are going to take another run at it this evening.  While there though we did see several sea lions trying to bask in the  mid-day sun in spite of the tourists trying to take their pictures and get them to do tricks.  I was no better.  I almost stepped on one while I was staring at the beach full of gulls standing on on leg and preening.  I hearda strange grunting noise which I thought was coming from the cliffs, then looked down at my feet to see a lump of angry fur daring me to take one more step.
After lunch we went to a aquatic research center run by the University of Ortego to watch them feed their fish.  They have an excellent little aquarium containing all the fish of the bay and surrounds.  I thought the niftiest exhibit was thelarge cylindrical tank in the lobby filled with red krill, the mainstay of the diet of many species including the the huge ballen whales.  There are so many in the bay that you can see long red bands in the water.

Out in the Wilderness -no internet

We are at the edge of the world.  Almost as far south you can get before the South Pole.  No internet.  Saw sea lions basking this morning and incredible native forests this afternoon.  Hope to add pictures in time.

On the road on Boxing Day

Tomorrow we will begin our trip along the SE coast of the South Island.  Our stops will include Oamaru, Dunedin, the Catlins, Glenorchy and Lake Tekapu.  We will be on the road for ten days, staying mostly in hostels.  We hope to see penguins, seals, albatross (none for our necks, thank you!) and lots of beautiful countryside.

Old mustached guys

Christchurch Museum

Sumner from the top of the valley

Dock in Akaroa

Fish and chips in Akaroa

Headed out to Quail Island

The Summer solstice

Yesterday was the summer solstice, unless you are unfortunate enough to live in the Northern Hemisphere.


Bob drove us to the lovely village of Akaroa. This village was originally founded by the French, who, if the had arrived two years earlier could have made South Island a French colony. We had intended to go out on a boat to see dolphins and possible whales, but the seas were high and all but the two biggest boats were bound in the harbor.  Instead we went for a lunch of incredibly delicious fish n' chips.  We walked out on the boat pier and enjoyed the sun and lots of wind and then walked back to the beach.  Rowan and Avery went swimming and playing in the sand, while we crumbled in the shade of a beachside tree and enjoyed the ocean air.  I walked down to the French butcher shop and looked around a bit.  I was attracted to the butterflied leg of lamb pre-seasoned Moroccan for the barbie. In the mid-afternoon we drove back through the gorgeous countryside of colossal volcanic hills covered with trees, grasses and sheep.

Last evening we went up to a park on top of the ridge and waited for the mid-summer's moon -made special this year by a full eclipse. At first it seemed we would be disappointed as there was heavy mist along the horizon and full eclipse was scheduled for 9:15 pm.  But about 9:22 the pinkish brown disc forced its way through the clouds and from then on did justice to the night sky. We watched until about  10:30 when the creamy midsummer moon proved enough light to make our way back along the rocky trail in the park to our car and then home.

Christmastime in Christchurch Cathedral

We have been in the Cathedral a couple times.  One morning we ran into the large group of school children singing Christmas songs and carols.  We listened for half an hour -pretty long program for youngsters.  Interesting that this is an American song/Mexican.  I've seen a lot of people here but no Mexicans.

Around town -Sumner

We have been here now for over a week and I am beginning to get a feel for the community. 

The Bower family lives in Sumner, a borough of Christchurch.  The town spreads along the coast and sprawls slowly up the valley between two legs of an ancient volcano. Driving east into Christchurch, you pass through other small communities where the rock comes right up to the sea and the many layers of volcanic rock and ash can been seen in cross-section.

For reference, the nearest large landmass to South Island is Antarctica which plays an ever ready role in the weather systems here.  Lyttelton Harbor has been and still is the key staging point for Antarctic expeditions.  

The houses along the beach are quite nice and of modest size although not of modest price. The all have a full on view of the ocean which they capitalize on with lots of glazing. But as you move back away from the beach, most of the houses are smallish and on smallish lots.  Many have lovely gardens full of flowers -lots of roses right now- and ornamentals (many of the plants growing in yards are those we only keep as houseplants!), but they have an unfortunate custom of surrounding their lot with high board fences or walls.  While that may afford some privacy, it means that when you look out any window of the house all you can see is fence.

As you move up the valley, things improve.  The houses seem to get a little larger and because many of the lots are on a slope, they lose the fences.  Bob and Ali's place spreads up the cliff three levels, each with walkouts on the hillside and a nice deck on the valley side.

It is an 18-20 minute walk from the house to the beach or town centre, whichever.  Sumner is something of a travel destination in the summer so there are quite a few restaurants, a movie theatre, a nice little library, a grocery, meat market, fish market, hardware store, etc.  

Thursday was the last day of school and we had been walking the kids to and from school -a sixteen minute walk, so a touch over a mile.  Avery is taking riding lessons at a stable which is about eight minutes up the valley on foot.  we do a lot of walking here.

Looking down the street from the deck

Nice place to sit and enjoy the sun

The front of the house: far left is kitchen,the dining are and right is living room.  Upper level is upstairs bath and master bedroom with a small deck

Deck facing northeasterly.  The sun spills over the deck as it comes up, but being in a valley doen't crest the ridge until about 7:30.  In winter Bob says the sun disappears about 1:30 pm.

The weather so far has been less agreeable than the travel books claim.  We have had many days when wearing a pullover or jacket were necessary.  We are only a few days off from the summer solstice.  Lots of rain yesterday.  That said, on nice days it has been comfortably warm and in the morning a cool sea breeze wafts up through the valley adding a moist freshness to the beginning of the day.  

As you can see, they have had some dry weather, in fact something of a drought according to the newspaper.  The hills above town are already yellow and brown looking a lot like California.  As there are lots of dairy farms, the shortage of water is being felt particularly on the North Island.  Selfishly, we would welcome some dry days as we begin our road trip after Christmas.  

This morning, Bob, Rowan and I are going off to look for a Christmas tree.